Contrast Or … Days 25-27: June 3-5

Leon

There’s always contrast on a journey. Things that get your attention because there’s an unexpected juxtaposition. I chose Leon for mine. It’s a city of about 130,000 that grew up around its historical center having significant importance to the Camino. I’m staying toward the train station. Hence, in a more urban area. The first thing I noticed is how beautifully stylish the Spanish city women are. Their fashion sense reminds me of Paris in some ways; what amazing things can be done with jeans, a scarf and the right shoes. Of course, I can tell you…we pilgrims have none of these things. We’re into function no matter where we’re from.

The second has to do with art. After weeks of appreciating Medieval art, I was ready for a change. I stumbled upon a place on a hostel website. It turned out to be family-run Hotel Quindos. What attracted me was its tag line: For the love of art. One review said, “Weird art.” That cinched it for me. Where have you stayed in lodging that has original artwork in every room, every few feet, including the one where you sleep? I almost feel like home.

Well, there’s one piece I can’t quite figure out. At first I thought it was a political statement having to do with Franco. It’s a large work and takes a while to sort it all out. Now looking at the image I took…not so sure. Interesting anyway.

I asked the man at reception about the contemporary art museum. He said they just have rotating exhibitions. I decided I was game. When I returned he said in perfect English, “Sometimes these artists like that don’t let us know what they’re thinking.” Enough said…except I’d rather see edgy art than something made solely for commercial purposes. Art in its best sense documents culture and makes a statement. After all, what we know of the past is well said through art and literature, or tells of the future, reaching deeper. So much more than meeting criteria: It must fit over the sofa perfectly and match the decor color. That’s probably what I appreciate about Hotel Quindos. They don’t care what you think.

Then I wandered down to the historic area and was surprised to find an early Gaudi.

Then there’s the queen: Cathedral de Santa Maria de Leon. There’s an unusual delicacy about its soaring spires and buttresses. But the same could be said of a number of cathedrals I’ve seen. What makes it so special is the interior “play of stone and light”, as it said in the guide recording. They were referring to all the stained glass, one next to the other with out-of the-ordinary color schemes and images of any I’ve ever seen.

In Michener’s Iberia, he tells of a time when a prominent local coerced him into coming to the church plaza at 3 a.m.–after a few bottles of Rioja–saying he had a special surprise. This would have been about 50 years ago and Leon was a mere shadow of its present-day self. Few were out. The night had wound down. But suddenly as they were standing out in the plaza…all the lights inside the church flipped on, shining through all the stained glass into the night. The local had a confederate inside who performed this trick just for Michener…who said it was a sight to behold. But nothing like when they went inside with full lights illuminating all the glass. It’s difficult to capture all within the format limitations of a camera. But here’s an untouched photo to get the idea.

I also also spotted an interesting relief on the outside mixed in with the others. I’d seen others similar elsewhere. Built on the backs of men?

The rest of the time I spent people-watching and couldn’t resist this dog, too.

Tomorrow I’m headed to Sarria on a train from Leon, to make up for time I was laid up, where it is my intent to finish those last 111 km walking into Santiago. All good thoughts welcome. I appreciate the time-out in the city, but I’m ready to return to the relative quiet of the open path and villages.